file= CapeYork2022.htm
Introduction MAP of our planned trip.
After our Airlie Beach trip, we wanted to do
a change of scenery and visit Outback Qld.,
to Birdsville and the BIG RED, at the start of
the SIMPSON desert. However, the recent 
HEAVY rains had still blocked all access to
Birdsville, so we decided to go to Cape York,
the Northernmost tip of Australian continent,
instead. Didn't waste any time in the
previously visited towns and resorts. From
Proserpine north, it was all new territory for
my friend Pamela. I had been to Cape York
previously, by motorbikes, Beach Buggy and
various 4WD's, but the trips up and there is so
interesting am happy to go there again & again.
It was uneventful from Proserpine-Cooktown,
via Cairns, Port Douglas, Cape Tribulation and
the Coastal road past Black Mtn. At Cooktown
we visited ALL the Captain Cook sites, statues,
memorials and Lookouts. The lookout, which
Captain Cook climbed himself (quite difficult)
presented awesome sights of the city and sea
and the beach where the Endeavor, Cooks
ship, was repaired. Now let the photographs
and captions tell the storey.
Packing and Loading
We had BOTH learnt some lessons from the recent Airlie Beach trip, so packing personal gear was easy.
As usual, we BOTH overpacked, but getting better each time. Since we had to BOOK all accommodations
on the way up, we decided (wrongly as it turned out) NOT to pack the emergency camping gear,
including :- Small tent, sleeping bags, mattresses, pillows. I usually pack these in case we cannot get some
MOTEL or cabin accommodation somewhere, but haven't had to use this for over 10 years !!!
We then headed off, on main roads to our 1st stop at Kinka Beach, near Yeppoon. The pressure on all
accommodations was very HEAVY. Many, many Aussies, including "Grey Nomads" must be hitting the
Australian roads, by the thousands, making it necessary to book well ahead.
Finished packing at Parj's place.  First stop, Kinka Beach, near Yeppoon.
From Kinka Beach, we headed for Proserpine, NOT going into Airlie Beach, having just been there. The road 
& weather was good, and traffic light (?). Saw many stretches of Hwy still subject to flooding, even after I
had left the Airlie Beach area, some 25 odd years ago. However, many improvements were evident.
After a peaceful night at Proserpine, we headed for Cairns, our 3rd stop. We had to also stop at Cardwell,
a little GEM of a coastal village, right on the beach, near Hinchinbrook island. Had some lunch, a few drinks
and enjoyed the views. Also stocked up on "emergency ration, Champers and XXXX"
The GREAT Cardwell PUB, good food, views. The "Serving Wench" still on DUTY !!
View from the PUB, at Ocean, Hinchinbrook Isld. Better view from across the road.
The remainder of the trip to Cairns was un-eventful. It was easy going in good conditions. We had booked
a motel in the centre of town, near all facilities and the Esplanade. Good eateries and drinkeries there.
Pam had been a frequent visitor to CAIRNS in the past, often flying in her own private plane, and staying
at various 5 star resorts, which she had to look at for old times sake.
A Cairns/Pam  motel, used to be called RAMADA, eh ? Nice BAR/restaurant on the Cairns Esplanade.
We had wanted to do some BOAT trips to Green Island and suchlike, but the HIGH winds had cancelled
all offshore boat trips. We decided to head for the SKYRAIL, a fantastic cable car, about 15 km north of
Cairns, and enjoy the magnificent views, from Sea level and up the Escarpment. Skyrails was about 7+ km.
Cairns SKYRAIL, from near the bottom Great photos by Skyrail staff, and cheap.
Coming down, looking at the Coast & Ocean. View of Rainforest from Cable Car.
From Cairns, we headed North on the "Heritage listed" Captain Cook hwy, via Daintree, Port Douglas,
Cape Tribulation and then the coastal road to Cooktown, via  Bloomfield river, Lions Den Hotel and Black 
Mountain. There are many STEEP sections here which used to create problems for motorcyclists, when
4WD cars were sliding down the steep slopes, out of control. Most of these sections have now been
paved and are manageable for all. The Lions Den is a welcome stop, for food, drinks and photos.
Cooktown was VERY busy, were lucky to get accommodation there. The Captain Cook memorials and
Lookouts were a MUST see. Pity Parj's camera started giving trouble here, but were lucky that Pam's
mobile camera was working well. Just as well to have some Back-up cameras on any trip.
Good Lookout on Captain Cook hwy. Great Road. Some people have to be exhibitionists, eh ?
Sheraton Port Douglas, Pam's old favourite !
Great Lookout at port Douglas Wonder if she landed her Cessna here ?
Queue for Daintree ferry…popular !! Daintree river, full of salty crocs, no swimming.
Breakfast at Cape Trib…popular for backpackers. 4WD track from Cape Trip to Lions Den. Many
steep sections and creek crossings. VIEWS !
Bloomfield river bridge. Used to be a dangerous Lady Pamela at Lions Den Hotel. Good stop.
ford, then causeway, now bridge.
Black Mtn, about 20 km from Cooktown. The Captain Cook Lookout, Cairns. Very steep 
black is a DARK Moss, I believe ? drive up, Cook climbed this in Sailor gear ??
Pics of Pam here were poor. Parj's camera Pam with Captain Cook Statue. Taken with
started playing up here. No Camera shops here. her phone, Parj's camera playing up !
We had hoped to stay at Cooktown for a couple of days, but NO available accommodation. Bloody GREY
NOMADS everywhere. Started heading towards Laura, Hann River, Musgrave Stn, Coen and Archer River
for next nites accommodation. The track was quite good, no problems. 
There are Road houses every 100 km or so, The PET Emu was VERY friendly. Food ?
up to Archer river. Then the gaps widen. Also plenty of PET parrots and suchlike. 
COEN "Sexchange Hotel? Genuine name ! Archer River R-house. Used to be  last stop
Peninsula Devt. Road still in excellent condition. for Food/Petrol before Bramwell Jcn., opened.
Parj contemplating the MEANING of life, at
Archer River airconditioned cabins. Good food.
Camping area also available.
<----Lady Pamela "roughing it". Not quite 5 star
but perfectly adequate for the location. Better
than a tent or car sleep, by FAR.
From Archer River, the TRACK got a bit rougher, with more and more corrugations. Nothing like as BAD
as 20+ years ago, before the tracks were improved after Cyclone damage. Could use 2WD to TOP now
using the Bypass Road, as the corrugations and creeks crossings have been MUCH improved.
We proceeded on past the Wenlock River bridge to Bramwell Jcn. Before the Wenlock river bridge was
built, about 15 years ago, the water level in the river determined when the track North was opened. I have
camped at Wenlock River, often. There are reports of Salty crocs here….hard to believe. Plenty of freshies
around, pretty harmless unless you step on one, accidentally. 
Bridge over Wenlock River. Used to be a "ford". Bramwell Jcn., last food & petrol before TOP
Fun riding Motor bikes in DEEP water ! Also, the Difficult TELEGRAPH track starts
here, we avoided this and did Bypass road.
DISASTER now OCCURRED From Bramwell Jc'n., to TOP was about 200 km., via the Bypass Rd.
About 30 odd km from the Jardine River ferry, about 100+ km from the TOP or our destination at
Punsand Bay Resort, the JEEP engine suddenly gave up the ghost. It gave NO previous indications of
problems, but a sudden "overheating and ENGINE SEIZURE" occurred. Would NOT even turn over after
it had cooled down ?? We had been travelling well with no signs of problems, over BAD CORRUGATIONS
but you would expect a 7 yo well serviced JEEP Wrangler, to handle this with ease. I had done this trip
with MANY other "inferior" vehicles, some 4wd's, many motorbikes and a Beach Buggy several times,
with NO previous problems. We were stopped at the side of the track, and immediately several passers by
stopped and offered to help. One chap had to re-arrange his LOAD to take Pam and myself to our
destination….Punsand Bay, about 100 + km away, across the Jardine River ferry. We could NOT take any
of our luggage, including :- daily medicines, toiletry and suchlike, as NO space in the rescue car. We had
to leave my "disabled JEEP" very vulnerable on the side of the road, subject to possible break in and/or
vandalism. Anyway, when safely at Punsand Bay we thanked our rescuers with MUCH booze and food. In
our subsequent confusions, we even LOST our rescuers names and contact numbers. They had my card
with my details, so I hope they contact me, so I can thank them more adequately. Great people in the bush.
Anyway, we had pre-booked 2 nites accommodation at Punsand Bay, so were OK for a couple of days.
We immediately started arranging recovery of Parj's Jeep, with Jeep Roadside assistance. This was an
exercise in FUTILITY and FRUSTRATION. There was only ONE (1) Towing or recovery operator in the
area, and JEEP Roadside could NOT understand this simple fact. They wanted SEVERAL quotes for
the recovery, ONLY ONE (1) was available. Every time I called them, with POOR reception, they wanted
ALL my details again and again, even though I had been allocated an INCIDENT number. Eventually, I had
to organise my own TOW and worry about claiming this from Jeep Roadside, eventually. Very BAD service
given my circumstances. They want to argue the toss about EVERY phone call and were really NO HELP
in very stressful circumstances. Eventually, they covered my TOW costs to a Service station in Bamaga.
In the meantime, while my car was still in a "vulnerable position" on a remote track, 100 km away, and 
30 km South of the Jardine Ferry, we had to arrange a car to take us there, to recover ESSENTIAL daily
medicines, toiletries, clothes and suchlike. Here begins an INCREDIBLE GOOD LUCK STOREY.
We were advised by the Punsand Bay Resort, that a Local guy, Des Dean, may be willing and able to 
help us out. We were in the Punsand Bay resort, with accom. For 2 nites only, no medicines, no toiletries
and NO transport, and our car about 100 km away on the side of a remote bush track !! Anyway, Des
Dean was our saving angel. He organised a vehicle to take us to our abandoned car, and recover essential
items, until our car was towed back to safety. Then, and afterwards, Des was our transport and helper
to move around the area, to arrange Jeep repairs, if possible, and find new accommodations as they kept
running out. We were extremely luck to NOT have to sleep under a tree or bush, as all camping sites were
fully booked, and motel/hotel/cabin accommodation was ONLY available, by the grace of DES, on a day to
day basis. Des was always available to transport us around to LONG distances in the top, to mechanics,
Tow operators, Accommodations, and finally to Bamaga Airport to fly home. Des also packed or car gear
and had it sent home to us, via Aust. Post. This involved a fair amount of trouble, in packaging 7 boxes.
We just could NOT have MANAGED without the HELP of Des Dean, Bamaga LOCAL. We will be forever
in his debt, despite whatever small appreciations he was willing to accept from us. WELL DONE DES.
The Ozzie bush keeps turning up GREAT guys like Des, all the time. After it was apparent that it was NOT
worthwhile having my JEEP repaired at Bamaga, or even Cairns, we decided to abandon it at Bamaga.
We had to stay on at various locations, for several more nights, lucky to find beds anywhere in the area.
Then Des drove us to Bamaga airport to fly home. Here again, LUCK was on our side ??? We were VERY
lucky to get flights to Cairns and then Coolangatta, with little delays. We must have gotten the LAST seats
on both flights, or perhaps cancellations or no turn ups ? Flights were VERY heavily booked. It was such
a relief to get back home to Pams place at the Gold Coast. Could have turned out MUCH, MUCH worse.
Typical track, North of Bramwell Jcn., Our rescue vehicle. Lost this guys name and
details, hope he gets in touch with us.
Crossing Jardine River, in rescue vehicle. Jardine ferry, crocs got a local few years ago.
We had left my Jeep beside the track, vulnerable. Ferry charges are VERY heavy !
Entry to Punsand Bay resort, safe for awhile? View of Torres Straight, from Punsand Bay.
Car was left vulnerable on roadside, 100 km away.
The TIP, is about 7-8 km from here, to right.
The 2nd Rescue vehicle, Des Dean arranged Poor Jeep. Lucky NO windows had been
to pick up medicines and toiletries ++ from smashed and ALL our gear stolen. Had to
abandoned car, 100 + km away, vulnerable. leave car there, until TOW/recovery arranged
in the next few days. THANKS DES DEAN.
Had to pay Ferry & ride fees, ouch !
The "Serving Wench" back at Punsand Bay The MIGHTY DES DEAN. What a great guy.
showing gratitude to rescue drivers. We could NOT have managed without his
FANTASTIC HELP. Typical outback Ozzie, we
will be forever grateful to this GUY. He saved
our bacon, and made our disaster bearable.
We will NEVER forget him, and will surely
hope to run into him again. Anyone in trouble
near Bamaga, could get in touch with him. He
is a local LEGEND, most resorts know his ph.
Our Cabin in Punsand bay. Getting accom., was Parj swimming in Torres Straight. Was he 
a day by day game of chance. Thanks Des, thinking of ENDING it ALL ? Crocs, sharks etc
Mark, mechanic at Top End mtrs., Bamaga, Des Dean driving us around: Seisha beach.
advised that it would cost more to repair than Took some pain away, Onya Des, great guy.
the vehicle was worth, so it was abandoned.
Pam at our LAST accom. Cape York Peninsula Parj at Peninsula lodge, testing the 4 XXXX.
Lodge, $330 a nite. Very nice, good food. Again, we were VERY lucky to get accom's
nite by nite. Must been some cancellations or
we would have been in REAL trouble. Even
with NO car to sleep in. 
Again, we cannot thank Des enough for what he did for us, without hesitation or complaint. We will NOT
forget him EVER. I also have to say how well PAM stood up to these problems. Never a word said in 
anger or complaints. But ever supportive and helpful, THANKS PAM
Map of TOP area. Lady Pamela, ALMOST got to the TIP.
Conclusions The ONLY way to overcome a disaster, is to jump right BACK onto the HORSE
straight away. Therefore, as soon as I got home, ordered a Brand NEW Toyota PRADO GXL. 2.8 Turbo
diesel. There will be LONG delays in delivery, due to Covid problems with production, so the earliest the
dealer could offer was about Jan 2023, or so? (no promises) This was to be a 2023 model, in a "metallic"
red colour. Looking forward to MANY trips in this BEAST next year….Look out Simpson Desert, Alice
Springs, Broome, Gibb River Road and MANY more. This BEAST will go anywhere a 4WD can go.
Cannot wait for this little number. Will have roof racks and internal range of over 1000 km ++. No need to
carry extra fuel tanks in this BABY. All the ROOM in the world, for genuine GREY NOMADS !! (he he he)
Spare wheel on tailgate, for EXTRA fuel under.
Instruments & equipment galore, incl'g Sat Nav
Almost worthwhile losing/abandoning the
JEEP for this. Should give sterling service as I still prefer the OLD boxy square shaped
long as I can still drive. Talk about seeing   Prados. Reckon these "rounded ones" look 
Australia first, this is the way to do it, in style ! TOO much like Toorak taxis ! AMEN
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