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File = |
SimDes2012.htm |
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Introduction |
We had done a previous Simpson Desert crossing,
many years ago, in our |
Nissan
Pathfinder 4WD, with no problems at all. Now I was keen to see how my Beach
Buggy could |
handle this
trip. My friend, Yolanda was not
enthusiastic on doing a rough bumpy ride, exposed to the |
elements, with
the possibility of having to dig or push in the sandhills or muddy tracks.
Therefore, my |
mate Matt
volunteered to come along, as did Tratty, another very keen Buggy owner &
club member. |
The plan was to
head for Birdsville in 2 days, about 1,600 km., then do a leisurely crossing
of the |
520 km., desert
from Birdsville to Mt. Dare, stopping midway and at Dalhousie Hot Springs, to |
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freshen up.
After fuelling up at Mt. Dare, we would return the same way to Birdsville and
home. |
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BlueV2, another
Buggy club member, did this trip several years ago, with no problems. |
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Map of our
travels. |
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Planned tot.
distance= |
4,682 km |
(Tewantin to Mt
Dare & return) |
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As it turned
out,I had to turn back |
about 10 km
west of Big Red, |
which is the
start of the desert, |
due to unfixable car problems. |
These are
described in the text. |
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The dotted
route, west of |
Birdsville, via
Dalhousie Springs |
to Mt. Dare, is
the desert proper |
and is approx.
520 km in length. |
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The approach
roads from say |
Brisbane to
Birdsville are |
excellent, and
good for 100 ++ |
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You may need
spare petrol from |
Windorah to
Birdsville, 388 km, doing say 120 ++ kph. |
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Preparation. |
My Buggy had been thoroughly serviced at Noosa,
with particular emphasis to |
fix my sticking
throttle, which would happen often, when driving in soft sand. The sand would
go into |
the cable guide
and jam open, requiring constant blipping of the throttle. The mechanics
assured me |
that this
problem had been fixed !! (they blew the guide clean but failed to put in a
"sand stopper") |
Petrol |
The distance without petrol, Birdsville to Mt.,
Dare was |
520 |
km |
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Petrol available in Buggy = |
40 |
litres |
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Spares taken, 3 * 20 Lt. = |
60 |
litres |
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TOTAL carried= |
100 |
litres |
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Available Consumption=520/100= |
5.2 |
km./lt. |
I usually do about 10 to 11 km/lt |
travelling fast
on bitumen, therefore, 6 to 7 km/lt. should be safe going slow on sandhills
and tracks. |
BlueV2, another
club member, reckoned 2 * 20lt. was all the extra he needed. I decided to
play safe. |
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Recovery gear |
We packed :- Good shovel and axe, snatch strap,
2 MaxTrax (just as well !!) |
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VW Nuts recommended the 2 MaxTrax, for which we
were grateful. |
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Also a
good 12 volt air compressor, with a narrow "nozzle" to blow
dry spark |
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covers, should they get wet. |
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Spare wheels |
I decided on one (1) spare wheel only, plus 2
spare tubes + good repair kit. |
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Spare wheels occupy much space and weigh a fair
bit. |
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Didn't expect any punctures in the desert sand,
so 1 spare wheel should be Ok. |
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Elsewhere, you are no more than 1/2 day from
tyre repairs. |
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============================================================================== |
Tools &
spares |
Carried a comprehensive (and heavy) tool kit,
for changing wheels and |
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repairing tyres + minor repairs. No other
spares parts were carried. |
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There are usually several cars a day on the
desert tracks, so you can get help |
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within 1 to 3 days, at worst. |
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Food, water,
booze. |
Since we only expected to spend 2 days camping
in the desert, we carried |
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minimal "dry" food, 10 lt. of water,
+ 30 cans of beer + some soft drinks. |
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All other times, we would be in hotels/motels
with food/drinks readily available. |
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Communications |
Mobile phones worked west to Charleville, then only at
Birdsville (Telstra 3G) |
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I had a 406 Epirb for emergencies, in case of
roll-over or injuries. |
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Dune Flag |
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You need a dune flag to warn oncoming traffic
at the crests of steep dunes, of |
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your approach. I had a 2700 bamboo pole, fixed
thru my roof cage and floor. |
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Since I didn't have a Buggy club banner,
Yolanda stitched me an elaborate |
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black "scull and crossbones" on a red
background. Took her 6 hours. |
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Parj at
Tratty's place, showing off his dune flag. |
Tratty and Matt, in front of Green Monster. |
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Trip Narrative |
Commencing from Kedron, Brisbane, Sat., 12 May
2012. |
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We headed off
at 1st light, to meet up with Tratty. Took some "START" photos and
headed west. |
The day was
clear and sunny but I soon noticed that I had forgotten my driving gloves, as
it was |
freezing cold .
A warm jacket and beanie helped. Our days target was Charleville, about 750
km. |
Tratty noticed
he was using a fair amount of oil, so he had to stop between fuel stops to
top up. |
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The second day,
target was Charleville to Birdsville, 842 km. Sunny and clear, easy going,
sitting on |
110 to 120 most
of the way. About 100km from Windorah, the bitumen became a good gravel road. |
We lowered our
tyre pressures and pressed on. Tratty had forgotten to buy more oil at
Windorah, |
and had to stop
about 60 km from Birdsville, as his oil pressure was getting dangerously low. |
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I towed him the
60 km to Birdsville, in the fading light, then darkness. No problem with
little traffic, |
but I had to
wait about 1/2 hour for the sun to set, as it was shining directly into my
eyes. |
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We had to tent
it that night, as there was something on in Birdsville, using up all the
accommodation. |
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Cooper Creek,
near Windorah |
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Bridge over Cooper Creek, plenty of water. |
============================================================================== |
Next morning,
after a good breakfast at Birdsville bakery (opens 6.30 am) we went to the
B'Ville |
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servo to get
our desert supplies of Extra fuel, (& oil for Tratty) Water, food, desert
pass $125 etc. |
Then there was
a 30 km stretch to Big Red, where the Simpson desert commences. Arriving at
Big |
Red, we had a
10 km detour around a flooded patch to get to the bottom of Big Red. Alarm
bell were |
ringing while
on this detour. My Buggy was scrapping the bash plate badly, while on the
wheel tracks |
of this detour.
Also, the sand was causing my accelerator to jam wide open. I had to be
constantly |
blipping the
throttle to slow down the revs, which immediately started again the minute I
touched the |
accelerator !!
Apparently, the LOAD from the Extra fuel, water, tools, spares, equipment had
lowered |
my Buggy rear
such that my bash plate was touching the ground and acting like a SAND ANCHOR
!! |
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Towing Tratty,
60 km to Birdsville. |
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He had run out of Top up oil, going fast ! |
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Birdsville,
servo, has it ALL. |
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Detour, 10 km to get to bottom of Big Red. |
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Anyway, at he
bottom of Big Red, we stopped to take photos with the club banner, and let
our tyres |
down to 8 psi,
Parj and 7 psi Tratty. This offcourse made my clearance worse !! |
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Tratty breezed
up Big Red, making it look easy. He also scooted up the much steeper dune,
beside |
Big Red, to
leave his "fresh" tyre marks for all to see. Not many 4WD's could
have made this one ?? |
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It took me 3-4
attempts, with sticking throttle and trying to pull 1/2 of Big Red's sand
with me !! I could |
smell my clutch
burning and gears felt funny. I realized then that I had to turn back, but
continued on in |
a similar
fashion for another 2-3 sandhills, mainly because I didn't want to disappoint
Tratty or Matt. |
About 10km west
of Big Red, with inadequate ground clearance, sticking throttle, burning
clutch, I |
reluctantly
decided to turn back. The consequences of getting stuck in the middle of the
desert were |
horrendous. No
buggy or 4WD could tow you to Birdsville. The recovery trucks, from
Birdsville or |
Mt Dare, would
charge anything from $1,000 to $8,000, depending on how far and how long it
took. I |
barely made it
back over Big Red !! Had to let the clutch cool down for 1/2 an hour after
each attempt |
and had to
charge up, flat out in 1st gear. In
the meantime, Tratty was having a ball !! He was |
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prancing
around, off the tracks, over VERY steep dunes, making it look like child's
play. Unfortunately |
he then slid
off a soft bank, into some trees and brushes, with his nose up about 30 deg.,
well and |
truly stuck.
Trying to drive out, he dug his rear wheels in till he was sitting on the
floor pan. |
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============================================================================== |
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Bottom of Big
Red, after 10 km. Detour. |
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Showing club banner, see flooding behind. |
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Tratty made it
look so easy. While showing |
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We had to detour 10 km around floodwaters |
off, he got
stuck badly, later. |
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to get to the bottom of Big Red, desert start. |
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Parj making 3rd
or 4th attempt, dragging sand. |
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Tratty left some good "original" tyre
marks. |
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Tratty, well
and truly stuck.(showing off ??) |
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Digging + MaxTrax, got him out. |
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After I was
safely on top of Big Red (with severe burning smells !!) I grabbed my shovel
and MaxTrax |
and walked
about 80 metres off the tracks to help get Tratty out. Took 3 of us about 45
minutes to |
clear his
underside, after which we inserted the MaxTrax. Tratty drove up the 30 degree
slope with |
no problems,
thanks MaxTrax, thanks VWnuts ! |
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Recovery truck, would have cost HEAPS. |
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Return from Birdsville |
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I limped back
to Birdsville from Big Red, with the throttle cable still stuck and with
worrying burning |
smells, dodgy
clutch and gearshifts. The mechanics at the Birdsville servo had a good look
but could |
do little to
solve my problems. |
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My loaded clearance, under the bas plate, was
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167 |
mm |
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Tratty's loaded clearance, was :- |
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260 |
mm |
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They could do
nothing about my clearance, but blew compressed air into the accelerator
guide tube. |
This made
matters worse, but over time, most of the sand fell out, when not driving in
sand. |
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We were lucky
to get CABIN accommodation that night, after a good bellyful of beer and
food. |
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Tratty's buggy
was using oil at a fast rate, so he had to pull up often to keep his oil
pressure up !! |
While having
lunch at Windorah, Matt left his jacket on the back of a chair with his
wallet in it. |
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Didn't realise
this till 240 km later, at Quilpie, where he phoned them from a servo and
arranged to |
have this
posted home to him. (had $700 cash + license + cards + etc. in wallet.) |
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When getting
dark and approaching FoxTrap, we had seen many wallabies on the road. About
1-2 km |
from FoxTrap,
after relaxing somewhat (isn't this usual ?) I hit a wallaby a glancing blow.
Tratty was |
so close behind
me, he couldn't avoid it, so he finished it off !! |
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Lunch at
Windorah Pub. Matt left his jacket |
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Fuel and oil stop, on the way home. |
and wallet
here, on the back of a chair. |
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Tratty was using heaps of oil, at 110++ kph. |
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The next day,
Tratty was still using large quantities of oil. Wonder how his engine would
have gone |
struggling in
the 520 km of desert ?? He was topping up with oil in between fuel stops,
every 100 km. |
Approaching
Dalby, it was getting dark, so Parj and Matt decided to stay in Dalby. Tratty
didn't mind |
driving in the
dark, so he pressed on home. |
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We were
surprised that we couldn't get motel accommodation in Dalby after 1.5 hours
searching ? |
Apparently, the
miners bulk book all the rooms for their workers, leaving nothing for
tourists ? |
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Anyway, about
7.30 pm, a motel we were at, had a last minute cancellation, for a 1 bed
room. We |
grabbed this
immediately, and the staff put another mattress on the floor.....beats
sleeping in the |
schoolhouse
veranda ?? |
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============================================================================== |
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Lessons and recommendations, for future
travellers. |
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1. Buggy
clearance, FULLY LOADED, for driving in soft sand, say min. = |
230 to 250 mm |
2. A long
handle shovel is easier to clear sand from underneath the buggy, worth any inconvenience. |
3. Make sure
you have gloves plus a warm hat or beanie. A peaked cap is useful early or
late. The |
hats or beanies should have restraining
straps, to stop them flying off in crosswinds or at speed. |
My arm got tired trying to keep my beanie
on, or to shade eyes from the early/late sun. |
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4. The MaxTrax
proved VERY useful, as did our (short) shovel and snatch strap. |
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5. If you have
a normal VW tank in your buggy, I would carry at least 3 by 20 lt. of spare
petrol tanks. |
6. Take plenty
of spare Bungy straps, plus ratchet straps, very useful for roof loads. |
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7. Telstra 3G
Mobile phones work OK west till Charleville, then only in Birdsville. There
is plenty of |
winter traffic in the Simpson desert, so
you don't really need a Sat Phone. You would expect help |
within 1/2 day at worst ? An Epirb may be
handy if you have an "injury" accident. |
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8. Spare
wheels. These are heavy and take up much space. I reckon 1 is sufficient,
with say 2 extra |
tubes plus a good repair kit. You would
be unlucky to puncture twice in the desert sand ? |
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9. Bash plates.
It is best to have a bash plate, continuous under the gearbox and engine. My
plate |
was only under the engine, leaving a
"dropped" scoop behind the gearbox, as a sand anchor. |
The best opinion is to make this out of
aluminium checker plate, lighter then steel. |
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10. I will make
another trip, soon after the following modifications have been made:- |
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Buggy LOADED clearance increased from 167 to at
least 230 to 250 mm. |
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New accelerator cable installed, NOT liable to
sticking. (motorcycle or boat cable ?) |
A successful trip report will be
appended to this, after it has been completed. Judging by how |
well Tratty's buggy went, and reports
from BlueV2, this should be EASY for a well set up Buggy !! |
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P.S. |
Tratty's engine blew up a few days after his
return, requiring new pistons, cylinders and |
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at least some head work. He's very lucky this
didn't happen in the middle of the desert as |
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recovery costs have been quoted as between
$1,000 to $8,000, depending on time and |
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distance involved. Probably better to spend
some of this in Preventative maintenance ? |
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On top of Big
Red, looking west. |
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I'm the King of the Castle, nah nah nahhh. |
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The King needs
a tow ?? |
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Try driving into this ? |
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====================================================================== |
END part 1 |
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