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California to
Alaska, by hire car, May/Jul-08 |
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File = |
USA-08 |
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Introduction |
We reckon this to be one of |
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the best car
road trips, on this planet ! The roads, |
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scenery, wild
animals, accommodation, food & booze |
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costs, rental
cars, language (almost ?) make it very |
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convenient,
cheap and thoroughly enjoyable. |
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I had done this
before, with a mate on Motorbikes |
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in 1988, not
seeing too much as it was a roadrace |
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most of the
trip ! At that time, most of the Alaska hwy |
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was gravel, and very treacherous in heavy rain. Don't |
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know how we
survived that trip ?? Didn't see much ! |
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Yollie and I
also did this in 2002, by hire car, at a more |
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modest pace and
timing, enjoying it so thoroughly, such |
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that we decided
to do it again, as follows :- |
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Start date,
23-May-08. End date, 6-Jul-08. |
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Total miles
travelled=13,352 with no cop stops !! |
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Hire
car=Pontiac G6, 3.5 lt with auto, air, etc. |
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Sat Nav=Garmin
Nuvi 310……invaluable |
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This trip was
planned at a more leisurely pace, as we |
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are getting
older. Don't feel like doing 1000 km. or |
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600 miles in a
day any longer. We spent more time in |
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National Parks,
viewing animals, and just admiring the |
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scenery, than
on previous trips. (old age catching up ?) |
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Managed to get
to the "ARCTIC CIRCLE" this time. |
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The hardest
task was which photos to discard. Yollie took 1,600 photos, which she edited
down to |
about 800,
before she started fixing them with PhotoShop Elements 3. It was a very
difficult decision |
which
magnificent photos of animals, scenery etc. to omit, to keep this report a
manageable size ! |
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Hire Car's |
As usual, the ALAMO hire car service was
superb. We pre-booked on the INTERNET |
for a compact
car, Chevy Cobalt or similar, for 42 days for about AUD $1,800, all inclusive
with 24 hr. |
roadside
assistance, insurances, taxes, etc., being about :- AUD $43/day. When we got
to LAX, we |
took our pick
of 50 or so near new vehicles in our rental category, and drove off. |
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G6 Pontiac,
about 215 hp, lousy auto gearbox. |
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Front view of G6 Pontiac, with background. |
In valley of
the Giant Redwoods, California. |
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Even leadfoot averaged 25 mpg overall !! |
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Now USA rental
cars are NOT allowed on gravel roads, I think mainly to avoid windscreen
damage. |
Therefore I
made enquiries at Fairbanks, ALASKA, to rent a 4WD to go up the Dalton Hwy
past the |
Arctic Circle,
to Prudhoe Bay on a superb gravel road. (we had seen this road on pay TV
episodes) |
No way could we
rent a 4WD anywhere in Fairbanks, to do this trip! Anyway, once we got to |
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Fairbanks, we
looked at the Dalton Hwy and decided to go on to the Arctic Circle, some 185
miles |
north, in our
2WD rental car. No problems at all, can't understand what the fuss was about.
While |
doing this
section, we heard on the radio, a motorcyclist had been killed here, a few
days before. |
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On Dalton Hwy,
heading for Arctic Circle. |
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Needed a wash after Dalton hwy trip. |
Good gravel
road, no problems at all, even |
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Would have been good for speed cameras ! |
with 2WD and
low clearance car ! |
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Returning the
car took about 5 minutes, as usual. An attendant read all the car parameters
with a |
remote scanner,
did a cursory visual examination, and after signing credit card dockets, we
left. |
Petrol prices,
which the Yanks were screaming about, were still below Oz levels, at AUD
$1.10/lt. |
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Satellite
Navigation, Sat Nav. Garmin Nuvi 310 |
Even with excellent maps, and an alert |
passenger, the
Sat Nav proved invaluable. In the USA, if you miss a freeway exit, or are in
the |
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centre of a
largish town, you can easily get lost. With the Sat Nav, you get early
warning of turns |
and exits, and
leaving towns for another destination is a breeze. I often wonder how I or we
managed |
before, without
this aid, especially alone on motorbikes, when you had to :- |
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1. Stop the bike and take off your gloves, put
on your reading glasses. |
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2. Find the map, figure out where you are and
where you want to go. |
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3. Keep repeating the above, every time you get
lost. |
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4. Finding your way out of towns, where
accommodation is off the hwy, was always hard. |
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Even when you
are travelling alone, the voice prompts warn you of all turns. Highly
recommended ! |
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Motels and
accommodation. |
We generally used medium quality motels, such
as Best Western, |
Days Inn,
Holiday Inn, Comfort Inn and similar, whenever possible or available. These
cost on |
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average between
AUD $80 to AUD $110/night. In some of the more popular resort towns or cities |
such as Lake
Louise, Jasper, Fairbanks, Banff, you had to pay over AUD $200 to AUD
$300/night. |
We also found
self contained cabins very appealing, whenever available, usually in resort
areas. |
These had all
the facilities of motels, handy parking, easy access and no noise issues. We
refused |
to use credit
cards for accommodation, as a matter of principle, always using cash. Because
of the |
high Ozzie
dollar, our actual costs were well
below estimated budgets, even with higher petrol costs. |
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ATM's, Credit
cards etc. |
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The overall
fees for using overseas ATM's for cash were about 3.24%, verging on usury !
This was |
for using debit
cards, withdrawing our own cash. We generally tried to find ATM's attached to
banks, |
so that you
could draw at least AUD $1,000, but this was not always available, often AUD
$200 was |
the limit. I
guess everyone took their cut, the ATM owner, overseas banks currency
conversion, |
Ozzie bank ATM fee plus transaction fee…….can they
think of anything else, Jesus wept ?? On my |
return, my
bank, refunded me 50% of the fees incurred, for what reason I don't know ?
(shame ??) |
We always
prefer to use cash for all payments overseas, especially for accommodation,
fearing |
credit card
fraud. This sometimes creates problems with a security deposit. If they don't
accept a |
reasonable
amount, say $50 or $100, we go elsewhere. Whenever a cash deposit was
required, |
this was
returned in the morning, with no room check carried out !! It was a nice
change to hear the |
Yanks whinging
endlessly about their exchange rates and the cost of petrol. (gas) |
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National Parks
Pass |
They have a great deal for visitors to all the
National Parks in the USA for a |
yearly fee of
USD $80. The average park entry was about USD $20, so we figured we were
about |
$100 ahead,
counting all the USA National Parks we visited, including :- |
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Crater Lake,
CA, Olympic NP. WA, Glacier Park MO, Yellowstone WY, Gunnison Black Canyon
CO, |
Monument Valley
AR, Zion UT, Bryce Canyon UT, Yosemite CA, Sequoia NP CA, Joshua Tree CA. |
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Roadside
leading to Crater lake. This was |
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Crater Lake, Oregon. Talk about picture |
in May, gets
some snow here ! |
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postcard. Some exit roads were still closed. |
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Olympic
National Park, Washington State. |
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Olympic National Park, Washington State. |
Great views
from above the clouds. |
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Looking down on clouds and roadway up. |
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Approaching
Glacier Nat. Park, buffalo farm. |
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Glacier Nat. Park. We had to approach this |
The large herd
was far away. Montana. |
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from both East & West, as the thru road |
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was still blocked by snow, in the middle. |
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Yellowstone,
Geyser area. The whole park is |
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Yellowstone, hot mud pools. Drive thru the |
vast, full of
interesting features & animals. |
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park at your own speed and convenience. |
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Gunnison Black
Canyon, Colorado. |
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Gunnison Black canyon, again. |
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Monument
valley, Arizona. Drive thru yourself. |
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Monument valley, Arizona. Western movies. |
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Long tunnel
into Zion Nat. Park, Utah. |
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One of many Zion amazing views. |
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Bryce Canyon,
Utah. |
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Bryce Canyon, Utah. |
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Yosemite,
California, rock climbers. |
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Yosemite, California. |
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Sequoia Nat.
Park, giant trees. General |
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Sequoia trees. You can only get in about |
Grant &
General Sherman, 2 largest on earth. |
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1/10 of full height of tree into a photo. |
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Joshua tree
Nat. Park, California. |
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View west from Joshua Tree Nat. Park. |
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Wildlife seen on the trip, photographed from
inside or beside the car ! |
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The number of
animals we saw on this trip was unbelievable, mostly on the roadside. Many
main |
roads in USA
and Canada have about 20 to 30 metres cleared on each side of the road. This
allows |
sunlight thru
and permits good grass to grow, and draws the animals in numbers. They don't
seem |
too alarmed by
traffic, if you slow down on approach. Our prize sighting were a black bear
with 2 cubs |
and a brown
Grizzly bear with 2 cubs, talk about luck !! A small selection of animal
photos follows :- |
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Seals on
California beaches, beside hwy 1 |
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Friendly squirrels, they are everywhere. |
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Wild deer, near
Ho forest, WA state. |
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Orcas, near Seattle, Pt. Townsend. |
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First black
bear, near Whistler, Canada. |
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Bear Crossing please STOP. |
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Another black
beauty |
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Fox eating roadkill. |
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Grizzly + cubs |
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Grizzly + cubs,
Yukon, Canada, wow !! |
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Black bear + cubs, Skagway Alaska. |
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Two beautiful
moose. Kiss me baby ? |
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Elk beside car window. |
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Big horn sheep
charging car ! |
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Mountain sheep, beside road. |
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Buffalo, no
longer an endangered species. |
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Only way to see a mountain lion these days ! |
============================================================================== |
|
Trip report, stage by stage |
LAX California to Seattle, Washington State. |
We picked up
the rental car from ALAMO, near LAX, about 9am, after landing about 7am. We
were |
entitled to a
"Compact" car, which was Chevy Cobalt or similar. In the row of
about 50 near new |
eligible cars,
we found a G6 Pontiac with Nevada plates. This was supposedly in the next
category |
of
"medium" cars, but created no problems on return. The Sat Nav.
guided us faithfully out of LA, |
which was often
a problem in the past, if you got off the InterStates. Being the first day
after a long |
flight, we
headed north along hwy 1 to Morro Bay, a delightful seaside fishing village.
Good tucker. |
Then we did the
magnificent coastal section, to just past San Francisco, after crossing the
Golden |
Gate bridge.
Stayed close to the coast till Eureka, when we headed east towards Mt.
Shasta. This is |
a magnificent
volcanic cone, but this time we could not reach the ski village because of
low cloud |
and bad
visibility. Continued into Oregon's crater lake, with heaps of snow and poor
visibility, until |
the clouds
cleared just before we left. Back to the coast, until another diversion west, to an |
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aeroplane
museum, which include the Spruce Goose. Crossed the mighty Columbia river,
near the |
Oregon/Washington
border, heading north to Port Townsend, near Seattle, to view the Orcas. |
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Morro Rock
peninsula, fishing village. |
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The famous hwy 1, LA to San Francisco. |
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Coastal
hwy1 Bixby bridge, top road. |
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Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, no fog !! |
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Ave of the
giant Redwoods, Nth California. |
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Climbing Mt. Shasta, had to bomb out. |
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Crater Lake, inland Oregon. |
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Crater Lake, inland Oregon. |
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Oregon coast |
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Part view of Spruce Goose. Top museum. |
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F102 Delta Dart
in Spruce Goose museum. |
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Russian MIG 29, I believe. |
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Bridge over the
mighty Columbia river. |
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Olympic Nat. Park, just got above the clouds. |
Border between
Oregon & Washington States |
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Boeing Factory
museum. Not allowed to |
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Boeing factory landing field ! Its awesome |
take photos
inside factory. (Airbus spys ?) |
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watching a 777 or 747 getting built. |
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Tacoma bridges.
(one fell down years ago) |
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Pleasure boats, San Juan Islands. |
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Seattle,
Washington USA to Arctic Circle, Alaska, via British Columbia & Yukon,
CANADA. |
After the ORCA
watching in Pt. Townsend, we visited the Boeing factory near Seattle, before
heading |
north to
Canada. The Boeing factory, where they assembled the giant 747, 777 and more,
was |
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absolutely
awesome to behold. It was NOT permitted to take any photographs inside the
factory, all |
personal
bags/cameras/mobiles, had to be left in lockers, before being personally
scanned/searched. |
Next into
CANADA, heading to Whistler ski resort, via the edges of Vancouver, then
Prince George. |
Then onto the
Cassier hwy, heading to Whitehorse, via Stewart and Watson Lake. More and
more |
wildlife was
seen, it being very difficult to choose which photos to put into this report.
The Cassier |
Hwy is mostly
paved now, but still not sure if USA rental cars allowed on it ? Really no
problem. |
|
The scenery was
just terrific, traffic was light, mood was great, what else do you want ? We
tried to |
rent a 4WD to
go from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay, via Arctic Circle, but not allowed. Took
our rental |
2WD with no
problems. We had seen this road on Pay TV and knew it was OK, even for
motorbikes. |
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Entering CANADA
customs, from USA. |
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Vancouver in the distance. We went around. |
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Scenery near
Fraser River, BC. |
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Near Stewart/Hyder villages. |
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Salmon Glacier,
north of Hyder. |
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Picnic time in Alaska or Yukon ? |
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Cruise ships in
Skagway, Alaska. |
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Alaska hwy, great road, great scenery. |
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Oil pipeline,
Dalton hwy, nth of Fairbanks. |
|
At Arctic Circle, no problems with 2WD. |
============================================================================== |
|
|
Return trip, Arctic Circle to LAX airport. |
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|
Having reached
the Arctic Circle, we commenced our return journey to LAX. Washed the car at |
Fairbanks, and
headed south towards Homer, via Denali. We gave Denali a miss, as you can
only |
visit there in
a tourist bus. It was unlikely we'd see better wildlife then already
experienced, and in a |
tourist bus,
you are a captive audience to compulsive talkers and "question
askers". (not rare in USA) |
From Homer, we
headed for Dawson City in Yukon, CANADA, via the Top of the World Hwy. This
was |
a good gravel
road, from Tok to Dawson City. Dawson City still looked like a wild western
mining |
town, beside
the Yukon river, with replica bars and taverns with "loose women serving
wenches". |
The Top of the
World hwy from Tok to Dawson City is a must do, great views and stop at
Chicken, |
which has
tripled in size since last trip. Rumour has it that it that the residents
originally wanted to |
call the town
"Ptarmigan" after local birds, but couldn't spell this….hence they called it Chicken. |
The section
from Watson Lake to Dawson Creek bought back memories of windy wet gravel
roads & |
rock falls
which caused problems on previous trips. Many animals, sheep, bison, deer
were seen. |
From Dawson
Creek, we headed for the magnificent section from Jasper to Banff, must be
amongst |
the top drives
on this planet. Accommodation at Jasper, Lake Louise, Banff was expensive and
hard to |
get. From
Banff, we headed south to Glacier Nat. Park
MO, then Yellowstone WY and then to the |
Ski resorts in
Colorado, Steamboat Springs, Vail, Aspen. We had skied there before, so it
was nice |
to see these
resorts in summer. It is cheaper skiing in Colorado USA than Oz, even with
airfares !! |
From the ski
resorts, we drove thru Gunnison Black canyon, then Montrose to Durango, via
Ouray. |
A quick dash
thru Monument Valley, AR could not be resisted. Many western movies were made
here. |
From Monument
Valley, went to Utah, Zion Nat. Park & Bryce Canyon, both special. Then
towards |
Salt Lake City
via the Olympic Ski fields of Utah. The Mormons did their best to convert us
at the |
Mormon
Tabernacle, but failed. After Bonneville Salt flats, we headed for Lake Tahoe
in California. |
This was a
pleasant surprise. The lake was surprisingly at very high altitude, and very
scenic. |
|
From there, we
had to change our plans as the forest fires were raging in California. We
were lucky |
to get in
Yosemite and Sequoia National parks, before doing Joshua Tree park. Smoke
getting bad ! |
Back in LAX
again, the heavy traffic was a burden but the Sat Nav. proved invaluable
again, here. |
After we
returned the rental car, taking about 5 minutes, we took a leisurely bus trip
thru LAX, |
|
including :-
Venice, Farmers market, Hollywood, City centre and more. Flying home, the
plane was |
full as usual,
but we had good seats from early bookings and seat allocations using the
INTERNET. |
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View of Mt
McKinley, now Mt. Denali |
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Well, fair enough, its good ole USA. |
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Seafood feast,
crabs, at Homer, Alaska |
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Couldn't make it up this glacier, in 2WD ?? |
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Top of the
World hwy, Tok to Dawson City. |
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Dawson City, Yukon, old gold rush town. |
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Lake Louise
hotel, Jasper to Banff section. |
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Banff hotel, bring plenty of money with you !! |
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Glacier NP,
Montana, snow closed road in middle. |
USA has great museums, crap cars ! |
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Entrance to
Yellowstone WY, terrific value |
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Steamboat Springs ski resort, Colorado. |
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Montrose to
Durango road, via Ouray. |
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Great cabin, Silverton, 4WD and ski area. |
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Monument
valley, Arizona. |
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Zion Nat. Park, Utah. |
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Mormon chapel,
Salt Lake City, Jesus wept ! |
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Utah copper mine, now owned by Rio Tinto |
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Looking down on
Palm Desert, memories of |
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Venice Beach, very busy and lively place. |
previous fast
motorcycle rides up this hill !! |
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Hollywood
Blvde, Marilyn Monroe clones. |
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Qantas jet, going home, end of great trip. |
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Summary. |
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This has to be one of the best car/road trips
we have done. For all its faults, |
the USA is a
very nice and convenient place to travel by car. All the great views and
National Parks |
are very
accessible and visitor friendly. The food and accommodation for average
travellers, is very |
reasonable, and
most Yanks, especially out of the large cities, are quite tolerable. The
museums |
are excellent
by world standards, the roads and scenery superb. |
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Having Ozzie
window stickers on the car, made life easy at checkpoints, though most of
these, on |
major bridges
and dams have disappeared, or are no longer obvious. |
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There's not
much we would want to do differently, apart from perhaps doing fewer miles
per day. |
I would
generally sit on 80 to 85 mph on country highways, until Yollie started
screeching. This time |
we did not have
a single Police stop for speeding. Can't believe it. Most times I get a few
"formal" |
warnings, at
least. These work as follows :- The cop stops you for speeding. When he
determines |
that you are an
Ozzie, and not too objectionable, he gives you a ticketed warning, which is
radioed |
in to base. If
you get another infringement in that state, you go for both offences,
otherwise all OK. |
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Car + typical
cabins. |
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Yukon river, near Whitehorse. |
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The mighty
Yukon river, another view. |
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Relaxing in the sun after day's drive. |
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